THE FRANKFURT JOURNAL OF GRACE AGUILAR

[Sarah Aguilar to Miriam Gratz Cohen 6 April 1848]

I hope you will find interest in reading the following transcription of Grace Aguilar’s Frankfurt Journal. Professor Michael Galchinsky who has kindly transcribed the journal, has requested that this, his initial  transcription, which I include here in its entirety is not in any way published, copied, distributed or loaned. I am sure that we would wish to recognise his request. I have copied Galchinsky’s transcription for your personal reading and have inserted copies of Grace’s drawings in the text at their original position. Extracts of this journal can be found from Galchinsy's excellent book published by Broadview Press (Grace Aguilar – Selected Writings, Editor Michael Galchinsky. ISBN # 1-55111-377-5.)

Michael Dugdale

Wed., June 16--

The journal of an Invalid cannot be of the same value or information as when health permits the indulgence of inclination in visiting every spot worth seeing and making every movement of time tell—  I can only mention things which have passed before me, leaving with regret much that is of much greater interest—

We joined the Sir Edward Banks Steamer at Blackwall at 10 oclock Tuesday night the 15 June intending to sleep on board and be ready for starting at 3, the following morning--  This is as I imagined not a good plan—for it comprises the loss of a night’s rest—not half an hours sleep being possible—by six we were all on Deck and from then till 8 the air and sea were delightful, at 8 we breakfasted—and afterwards I enjoyed lying on a [    ] on Deck--  the gushing breeze causing a delicious feeling of renovation—but about 10—the squally showers commenced and with them, increased motion of the vessel and that [   ] of all miseries Sea Sickness  I did not attempt to go on Deck again, for the rain and squalls continued ending in heavy rain just as we came in sight of the Harbour at Ostend.--  I was too ill to observe much of the characters on board—but they seemed a most respectable [   ] of travellers—no children.--  Directly on landing, an omnibus of somewhat a different shape to our English ones drove us to the Hotel des Fairs [sp.?] kept by an enormous fat landlady—  The [   ] [   ] was not [   ] ½ 4.--  Consequently we ordered a hearty meal which we took in the Salle—a very large room with several rows of long tables covered—they brought in a bast [sic] chicken and [   ] de veau, so speedily as to [   ] warm a customer’s heart however it could have been made hot—and[….] our luggage had arrived from the Custom House, an omnibus took us to the Station, whence the Train started for Malines(?) at ½ 4--  At the Station four Priests with the peculiar black robes and broad rimmed hats of their order seemed to impress me more than any other object that I was on foreign ground--  Father Clement, and all  the Catholic priests good or bad I had read about came before me.

We traversed 76 miles of Belgium from Ostend to Malines passing thro Plaschendele, Jabbeke,--Bruges of which I should like have been much more than merely passing thro—Bloemendale—[Aeltre—Hanscheke Landigeme Ghent—Melle Wettern—Wichelen Andigaum Termionde—Meldiren…Londergeeke—Casselle—and Malines at ½ 8—

The whole drive was thoro’ a country so exactly similar to Kent and Surry in England (towards the coast of the former) that, except when a village or house was discernable I could hardly realize I was in Belgium--  It was 76 miles of flat—but highly cultivated country—rich fields of Wheat Barley and Rye—looking beautiful with the bright blue corn flowers which we searched for so often in vain last year growing in such luxuriance amongst them that I longed to gather them—the fields are divided with rich hedges of high well grown trees—seeming to be the Poplars—[   ]—Oaks—Larches in quantities—firs—spruce firs Willows—[   ] and I think Alders.—  Little Streams, & pools—seemed to add to the luxuriance—a vivid appearance of beautiful cultivation--  The guide speaks of the Canal, with its water lilies—and bordered by hidden trees and [   ] [   ] but I did not feel sure of the water we saw, being the Canal--  The villages in the distance with the Barns and Horses all gave the idea of the richest fertility and peace—but still did not seem like a foreign Land.

 In any conveyances but a rail road—I have no doubt the sameness would have seemed tedious but going so quickly and easily made it only pleasant—at ½ 8 we entered Malines—an old picturesque Town transporting one ages back and bringing the “Maid of Malines” vividly before us.  Large white houses—broad Streets—an air of Silence and Solitude was quite distant from any City I had ever witnessed.  We drove at once to the Hotel Saint Antoine—where a little French woman, and dapper little French waiter, received us—very eagerly—few visitors ever stopping at this Town--  We had three most comfortable bed rooms turning out into a Sitting Room for our tea which we thoroughly enjoyed tho’ it was a very simple one—The marble covered chest of Drawers, large mirror, Table with the wash board, basins of ice, uncarpeted floors—lofty roofs and draped windows a handsome end Table with its cloth—all was quite new and had all the pleasure of novelty—Had to write our names in a Book, and so saw no one had been in the Hotel for a month prior which accounted for the Landlady having neither fish nor poultry  “pour le moment”—an answer given with such naivete as exceeding to [   ] us—The beds were most comfortable—very different to what we were led to expect--  In E’s room the Mirror was beautifully [….] 

 Thursday 17

—E. and A. Started for the Cathedral at ½ 7—greatly regretted felt too exhausted to attempt even driving to it—more tired than last night—making the only place where we send our own sheets--  Had breakfast of eggs rolls and tea in a private sitting room down stairs overlooking the street, where I amused myself with watching the people [   ] in their hooded cloaks—some with the hoods thrown over the head and others with caps—but none with bonnets--  The same stillness reigned in the morning as last night and the same air of age and of the Past--  The little hostess came to wish us “bon voyage” as did the little waiter—our sleeping there seeming rather a novelty to them--  Drove thro’ the Town to the cathedral which I could not resist trying to walk around--  It was the first Catholic Cathedral I ever saw and I was struck and delighted by it—tho’ I could not see it half long enough.  On every pillar is a Statue—and between the pillars on the sides of the Aisles—having large paintings all of course in subjects from the Old and New Testaments--  Before the high altar in the center of the choir was a bier in yellow and black—from which the corpse had only been removed the day before--  The Bier remains which [   ] are said--  But the most striking object was the pulpit, which describes in the most exquisite oak carving the conversion of St. Paul--  There is the frightened Horse falling on its haunches—and St. Paul half on the ground with the whole countenance turned in horror to the vision of the Crucifixion and an angel pointing to it which formed the left side of the Pulpit--  The Tree flowers […] form [   ] parts of one perfect whole […] and left of the pulpit are [   ] part of the group, and lost in the beauty of the whole [   ] stares out in the body of the Church as a superb tree—branches, [   ] most beautifully carved in dark oak--  The Aisles all open into [   ] which particularly struck me especially that of the Virgin—by the Side are large cases containing a variety of [   ] offerings mostly in the shape of hearts, which have been brought by devotees who have been cured by the intercession of the Virgin or Saint, to whom they have come--  An Old Woman kneeling at the entrance of the Virgin’s Shrine most devoutly telling her beads—was the complete realization of a picture—The [  ] of [   ] added so much to the grandeur of the coupe d’oeuil I could have lingered there for hours—recalling not only the past but agreeing with E’s observations as to the Rise of the Arts in Religion,--Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture--inspiring so much greater perfection and higher efforts than since the era of Protestantism has forbidden decoration in churches--  I could only notice one touch of an Archbishop—very large—with a fresco of Death summoning him--  Left it with the greatest regret, and proceeded to the Station where sat some time watching the concourse of people watching for the various trains--  Saw one woman with a high case like the French.  In our carriage was a young Priest—a particularly pleasing looking man especially when he spoke.  Thought of Father Clement.

 The Train [Steam?] from Malines to Cologne occupied from ¼ to 11 to about 8--  The only disagreeable of Steam traveling is that the Stations are situated so far outside the Town that we can only feel ourselves in the neighbourhood of places of Antiquity and interest not passing thro’ them as we used to do in Stage Coaches--  Lourain was the first memorable Town we passed—owing its [   ] it is supposed to Julius Caesar—  The rail road went thro’ the earlist ramparts Edward I is said to have lived here a year—and Charles I was brought up in it--.  It was taken by the revolutionary forces of France under General [   ] in 1792—

 Then 3 Stations of little consequence to Lauden [?]—said to be the birthplace of Charlemagne—The country still continued flat but excessively fertile Iris and [   ] profusely luxuriant toward [   ] the Station before Liege.  The flat gave place to rising ground which rapidly increased in beauty—From Wareninge to the Mathow before Aus-Fex de Saints Clocher--  The railway gradually ascends but so gradually that  one is quite unconscious of it till it reaches the altitude of St. Pauls.  From aus- the trains attached to a Stationary Engine descend an inclined plain till they reach the level of the river--  The view over Liege was lovely especially on the left hand superb Hills—Barley—Houses—Trees--  On leaving Liege we entered the valley of the Vesdre, which the road crosses 11 times—and the whole scene is there [   ] by water which so increases the fertility and greenness of the barley fields stretching up behind valley opening between them to banks covered with flowers and shrubs.  Rocks closing the road and then retreating  but completely covered with verdure  The beautiful light and shadow on the hills—all diversified the road (which was carried thro light or in Tunnels) as far as [   ]—where we entered the Prussian Territory and had to change our carriages--  We had some dinner at the Salle a Manger of the Station—and then proceeded to Aix—still thro’ fine scenery--  We could only see Aix by leaving the carriage and then not enough to please me—from Aix to Cologne the scenery was nothing particular—and being very tired I was glad it was --  The Station is outside Cologne—we were detained a little while during the examination of the luggage, and then proceeded in an omnibus to the Hotel de Rhineberg situated close to the Rhein—consequently we rode all thro’ the ancient fortifications and Town thro’ 5 old gates, the last of which was a regular barbican front--  The streets of the Town are particularly narrow but the shops seem excellent--  One of our horses fell down and attracted quite as large a crowd as a similar occurrence would do in London  [   ] too tired when we arrived at the Inn to take notice of any thing but our apartment which was formed quite like a drawing room—with a marble table—beautiful mirror—[   ] [   ] on the tope of which  was an exquisite group in bronze—an old man [   ] from his gun a soldier in an attitude of defeat dejection with his arm round a female figure sitting on a lower street at his feet her head bent down but young enough to be his grandchild--  The faces of both are most expressive –all the [   ] [   ] or [   ] on the Continent have no [   ] but are generally beautifully polished --  The bed was as clean and comfortable as any in England--  Had tea upstairs and it was quite as good as anything hungry and tired people could wish for—

 Friday 18^th

--  Was wakened by a most beautiful military band close under our windows which made me start from bed to look out, and saw a troop of percussion soldiers parading up a narrow street, transporting me back to the middle ages—but the music completely overpowered me it was so beautiful seeming to tell stronger than almost any thing else that we were [   ] in Germany—E & A—went to see the Cathedral—I could only sit by the window and watch all the curious [   ] and queerly dressed women and men passing by--  We had an excellent breakfast in the Salle—a superb room, looking over the bridge of [   ] which  leads to Deuty [?] the opposite suburb of Cologne--  At ½ 9 we joined the Steam (Stadt Maier[?]).  The morning till we passed Bonn was rather squally and showery—but from that point was most lovely more so than had the day been all blue--  The clouds producing the most exquisite effects of fleeting light and deep shadow that can be imagined--  The first object that interested me was the Beyer Thurm [?] –an old round and high Tower just out of Cologne.  Villages and fertile banks diversified the view—till almost a mile or two from Bonn the Seven Mountains or Siebengebrigo [?] appeared in view and from that the glories of the Rhine commenced--  It is impossible to mistake Drachensses [?] from it being so constantly the subject of painters—but Bournemouth and Rolandseck I could not see as clearly as I could wish from having been at dinner in the Cabin  It was the first Table d’hote I had ever witnessed and it amused me exceedingly--  Whether it was changed or not—I do not know but I enjoyed it a great deal more than our [   ] repasts and a German Lady who sat next to us who entered into eager conversation with E. amused us exceedingly--  The gout with which she enjoyed her  dining and the equal gout with which she expatiated on the beauties of the river—the delight with which she recognized some of her Friends at a window of Bournemouth was one of those curious mixtures of German sentiment and reality I have read of often—

 Reinegen on our right was a little Town embedded in the hills of the Rhine--  Then came the blackened view of Ochenfels on our left looking over the Town of Livy—

 Livy l.  Suzig r.-  The chateau of Argenfels is village of Miecher Breisigm--  Castle of Cheineck a village of [   ]—Broden Wall of Hammerstein—Andernach containing a Cathedral or Dom—with four curious Towers of the beginning of the 12 century and a picturesque Tower close to the water’s edge round below and eight sided above—of 1520—and a Jews’ bath of considerable antiquity--  The Jews were expelled from Andernach in 1596 and have never settled there since. Nearly opposite Andernach is the vivid castle of Federechateau close to the water’s edge—

 Neunried a town of only 100 years old—1737—and colonized by the [   ation] of its founder for all Sects to come and settle there and consequently Jews Catholics, Protestants, and [   ] live in Harmony together—a flying bridge connects Neunried, over the Rhine with the opposite shore—Weissenthurm—White Tower  There the French crossed the Rhine in spite of the opposition of the Austrians in 1797—and Julius Caesar leading his army against the [   ]—crossed it at the same spot nearly 18 centuries before—

 Village of Engers—Mulhofen Resselheim—with the chateau of Schonlornleist—the residence of the emigrant Bourbon Princes and their Adherents exiled from France during their Revolution—

 Coblentry—

The whole course of this beautiful view from Bonn to Andernach especially was one view of Rock Valley Mountain and vineyards which last in this early season have merely the appearance of diagonal green lines in rows one above another thus

covering every inch of ground from the highest ledge where it seemed no foot could scale to plant them down to the very brink of the river—Sometimes the most beautiful valleys would run up between the rocks and hills--  Then the mountains would as it were fall back from the brink of the river—and then a little while afterwards close upon it again--  The effects of light and shadow from the clouds continually passing over the blue heavens were magnificent--  Sometimes the whole back ground was a glowing flood of light and the foreground a mass of shade relieved here and there by patches of brilliant sunshine—then like the shifting of phantasmagoria the back ground would become dark as a storm cloud the midground distance bright as a beam of sunshine and the nearest [   ] grey—and then all would change again—still tho’ most beautiful and of more continued beauty than our little Island can display—I have seen as much of beauty in the Morwill Rocks and when rowing up the [   ]—I could not feel it more of loveliness—only that it continued up so many miles—and so many hours--  The view of Ehrenbreitstein and the bridge and boats at Coblentry was more striking than any other point of that day’s voyage--  The fortress and height of Ehrenbreitstein painting a view of grandeur one might gaze on long without any sensation of satiety--  At Coblentry the Moselle joins the Rhine and from any height they say the blue waters of the former are distinctly traceable in the more turbid stream of the latter--  Mamma--  E& A all saw it—I could not from the impossibility of walking—  After leaving our things at the Hotel des Geauls opposite the River—we hired a delightful open carriage for an hour and drove all about Coblentry--  The Coachman a most intelligent German showed us every object worthy of note--  The first building we noticed was the Cathedral or church of St. Castor with it four Towers, making such a pretty object in all the [   ] of Coblentry—its date is 836--  Opposite this in the square is a fountain erected by the French in triumph over the Russians at the time of Napoleon—saw the inscription of their commander instead of erasing it—added the following Sarcasm Vu et eprouve par nous Commandant Lupe de la Bille de Coblence Jan 1. 1814  Leaving the Square we went thro’ the most ancient streets of the Town noticed the first houses that were built there opposite the old Moselle Bridge the ancient Town Hall and the original Castle of Treves 1558 now a manufactory of Japan ware—a very ancient Archway with Towers and gate [   ] on the Bridge, and is closed by a similar one on the opposite end—  On the left side from the Bridge is the family House of Prince Metternich—the wall of which is indented with cannon balls fired by the French from the opposite side--  The view from the Bridge up the Moselle was beautiful especially under that superb evening--  The superb Palace of the Electors forms [the] side of a square and looks exceedingly handsome--  The trees are varied with beautiful grafted plant [   ] and others of [   ] scent--  The other front of the Palace overlooks the bridge and boats and the Rhine--  We noticed too the Theatre and the Casino or club a beautiful new building--  We went thro the Jews’ street one of the worst [?} and most ancient parts of the Town.  The Grammar School once the College of the Jesuits--  Then we [   ] by the side of the River facing Ehrenbreitstein which looked lovely, as did the farther banks--  It was exquisite country on both sides the River—and such lovely air--  We returned home thro a gateway of the Palace and the Town--  The shops in which seemed excellent--  We had our Tea in the Salle a splendid room with a paper resembling cut velvet, of green leaves—mirrors between every window which to the no. of 10 or 12 looked out on the Rhine and Ehrenbreitstein--So lovely in the Twilight—

Our bedroom was if possible still more like a drawing room than at Cologne Two French beds on each side the door and handsome sofa and Table [   ] the window which with the beds had lovely curtains of figured muslin--  The chambermaid was a pretty looking young woman with her head dressed in the peasant fashion of the country a sort of elegantly embroidered cap over the back of the head leaving the plait [brush] in which is stuck a silver arrow--  Saw several peasant girls on the Quay the next morning with some headdresses more elegant than others, it is very tasteful—

Saturday 19

--  Woke very weak--  E & A went up to Ehrenbreitstein--  Mama and I remained quietly at the Inn doing as much of our Sabbath duty as Time would allow at 12 started in the [Rubens] up the Rhine to Mayance.

 The scenery to day was much more beautiful and imposing than yesterday--  The Hills are darker, more mountainous in appearance and close [to] the River whose windings are so abrupt and complete as to give it the appearance of a succession of beautiful lakes--  We passed--  The village of [Noichhein] the Castle of Stotzenfels one ofhte most picturesque and beautiful castles of the Rhine--  It was not very long ago offered for sale for 70 Dollars (11 pounds) and could not find a purchaser and was then presented by the inhabitants of Coblentry to the Prince of Russia whose elegant taste has restored it with all the beauty of the present time without in the remotest degree injuring the beauty of the past--  It stands I should imagine exactly as it did in former times—not at the top but in the middle of the mountain; consequently it rests against a back ground of Rock which I think has a more beautiful effect than when it rests against the sky--  Many passages of the Castle seem actually formed of the Rocks, or with the crags and [   ]--  Itg is one of the very first objects on the River and overlooks the little village of Bassillan and the confluence of the Lahre (which [   ] out of a lovely valley) with the Rhine--  the ancient church of St. John--  beyond it—the little village of Niederlaustein and above it on the top of a rock the Castle of Lahnick a fine view—Oberldreistein a walled Town with a red castle on the margin of the Rhine, belonging to the electors of Branbach--  standing at the foot of a high conical rock surrounded by the castle of Marksburg—which retains all the characteristics of a fortress of the middle ages—even with secret passages—vaults hewn in the rock a chamber of torture and every thing that could make me long to see it—

 Mittelspay—Peterspay, and Oberspay three small villages over the last of which was the Castle of Liebeneck--  This is one of the most beautiful bends of the Rhine--  Then Bopssart rather a large town, ancient as the Romans, and famed in the midlle ages—and as the Station of the Knight Templars who first mounted the beach in the storming of Ptolemais in the third Crusade--  From Bopssart to Saltzig the river widens a little, cornfield and meadows approach its margin and the mountains recede forming most exquisite effects in the distance--  At Salzig the approach again enclosing the river on all sides—and opposite Salzig--  on the double [   ] of a rock covered with [   ] [sit] the twin [Castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein (called also the Brothers) and producing beautiful effect—

 Villages—and valleys of most beautiful verdure, and displaying every variety of light and shade—and towering rocks and mountains diversify the river till Welmach appears sheltered at the foot of a mountain, which is surmounted by the ruined Castle of Thornberg—called the Mouse—in contradiction to the Catze--  The Mouse is the stronger of the two and a perfect specimen of feudal architecture it looks very grand from the river--  This is on the left side of the Rhine as we ascend—and a little further to the right—appears the picturesque town of St. Goar [   ] above it, the extensive ruins of Rheinfels--  It was originally built by a Count Diether of Katzenellenbogen—1245—as a stronghold when a levy tribute on all merchandise passing up and down the Rhine—some unusually exhorbitant exaction—roused the indignation of his neighbours who in vain besieged his castle for 15 months--  But the want of success was one of the causes of the famous Confederation of 60 German and Rhenish Cities whose armies reduced and dismantled not only the Castle of Rheinfels, but almost all the other strongholds of the Rhine--  It was afterwards converted into a modern Fortress and endured many sieges—gallantly—till it was [finally] deserted by its garrison 1794 on the first appearance of the Revolutionary French Army who blew it up and so rendered it useless--  St. Goar is one of  the most picturesque looking towns on the Rhine—and opposite is Goarhansen—at the commencement of a beautiful valley only just visible from the Rhine—and crowned by the Castle of the Cat—(a contraction of Katzenellenbogen the name of its original possessors)--  It is very interesting to look down the Rhine a little beyond this spot--  The windings of the river are such that the two Castles the Mouse and the Cat seem frowning upon each one opposite when they are both in fact on the same side of the river—

 A little above St. Goar—our vessel rocked and tossed as if on the sea instead of a calmly flowing river, and we found it was passing over a whirlpool and then a rapid formed by the stream making its way over a number of sunken rocks increased by a sudden bend--  Here too is the Lurleiberg—a bare and perpendicular rock said to be the haunt of a Spirit—opposite is a grotto where two or three pistols were fired and a horn sounded to invite the echo which was clear and several times repeated.  The Lurleiberg is a very picturesque object.--  The first object after the bend of the river is the Inns of Obervesel—with a very picturesque round tower by the waters edge--  and a little chapel glen by the river concecrated to the memory of St. Werner—said to have been crucified by the Jews—and here thrown into the Rhine.  The body instead of sinking, or even floating with the current ascended the stream as far as Bacharach—where a beautiful chapel in the florid gothic style was erected to St. Werner’s memory and over his relics in 1428 tho’ demolished by the [   ] in the 30 Years War--  it still remains an elegant fragment and the highest and most beautiful [   ] style existing--  After Obervesel—viewed the beautiful ruins of Schouberg on the Rh--  A little further on—on the Rh—is the little town of Canle—with the ruins of Gutenfels above it—from which in the 30 years war Gustavus Adolphus directed an attack against the Spaniards from on the opposite bank but were [sic] unsuccessful--  At Canle Bhicher crossed the Rhine on New Years Eve in 1814--  Opposite Canle in the middle of the river is the curious looking castle of Pflatz built by Louis the Bavarian previous to 1826—as a convenient [   ] house--  It has [   ] below the level of the river is only occupied by a ladder and the only entrance thro a portaillier--  Tradition declares it to have been used by the Countess Paltchez in their accouchements--  The well which supplies it with water is filled  from a source far deeper than the bed of the Rhine—

 After Pflatz comes Bacharach with antique walls and 12 curious towers--  Above it [   ] on the brow of the hill the Castle of Sturnlech on the opposite side further on—the ruined Castle of Noulnigen—and the village of Lorchhausen then the round tower and shattered walls of Furstenberg and the village of Rheindibach--  Lorch one of the oldest towns on the Rhine guarded on [   ] river, by the two castles above mentioned—

 On the opposite side we came in [   ] of the castle of Heinberg just above the village of Niederheinberg and further up on the brow of a hill is the town castle of Lonnick formerly a [   ] [   ] and destroyed in 1282--  Here the number of ruins increases—Fallenberg on the [   ] of a rock [   ] and Reichenstein and Rheinstein [   ] in, or perched on a ridge lower down till more picturesque--  The last named Rheinstein—has been fitted up for a summer residence of the Prince of Prussia—in all respects like a [   ] of chivalry, armour painted [   ], and furniture, collected from all sorts of old castles and convents—

At the narrow pass below Rheinstein, was a Jews toll and dogs were trained to single out the Jews from the passing crowd—

Opposite Rheinstein the village of Assnianshausen famous for a red wine—Castle of Ehrensfels 1218 [   ]—is surrounded by the river—the little square [   ] tower of Archbishop Halso and this [   ]—but really supposed to be a toll tower like that of Pflatz--  Confluence of the Nahe and the Rhine—Bingen lovely in its [   ] Budesheim--  Close to the waters edge is the massive  square towere of the Brouserberg the walls of which are from 8 and 144 feet in thickness a tall tower joins it and is called Basenberg and higher up is the Castle of Brouserhof the site of one of the stories of the Rhine. 

Here the scenery changes—having flattened and the Rhine evidencing the [   ] of 2000 [f  ]—Geissenheim—8 elegant towers to the Church—Chateau of Johanisberg belonging to Prince Metternich surrounded by vineyards producing the best wine valued at 80000 GP.

To the left Winkel—formerly the Cellars of Charlmagne Chateau of Reichardshansen—Village of Erbach—Elfeld with its lofty Watch Towers of four turrets and reminiscent of the Castle built in the 14 century Biberich—very handsome [   ] facing the river of the Duke of Nasissau—very soon after Biberich Mayence comes in sight--  We landed about 7—and took coffee at the Hotel D’Angleterre—where we were much amused by seeing a swallow flying about the room which with his mate has for three successive years made its nest in the Hall migrating at the usual time and returning to its old haunt only changing the site of its nest once when it found that the corner in which it was, took in the [   ] of a bell which being constantly rung disturbed it and so it removed to the opposite side  and a more quiet situation--  An hours railway took us to Frankfort where we found lodgings and kind friends awaiting us—

The scenery of the Rhine comprising all the Castles and villages [   ] mentioned, is superb especially between Bosspart and Einigen--  The gorge of the River is so narrow and cuts so across a range of mountains running nearly at highest angles to the course of the stream, that there are good grounds to suppose they at one time stopped its course entirely and that some convolution of Nature (the deluge perhaps) burst thoro’ the mountain wall and made for the river, the gorge or ravine, by which it now makes its way to the ocean—

The vineyards are still more luxuriant, producing a still lichor grape--  The district is called the Rheinigan--  The bend of the River carries the rays of the sun to fall full [   ] upon the vineyards situated on the left (ascending) bank of the river—and the [   ] soil [   ] the [   ] heat of the rays—and the vineyards are sheltered from the N. & E. winds by the intervening barrier of Mountain--  All these causes produce the grapes, and answers my [   ] as to why the Rhine produces such luxuriance when it is so very little if at all more South, than our England--  the Emperor [probably] introduced the Culture of the Vine on the Rhine and Moselle—

The ravines and valleys foukept nd by the Cliffs of the mountains are [   ] [   ] varying the banks of the river and producing all kinds of picturesque effects--  It was one of those days of beauty that I hope will return again and again to mind and fancy—

Sunday 20^th-- 

A very wearied feeling day--  produced I fancy from the reaction after the excitement of traveling, the detention of our trunks or rather their being carried off to Manheim—prevented our arranging our things—and the company of the [   ] compelled idleness--  [   ] Home but not comfortably—feeling more [   ] than I used to do when young even after a ball--  went with Eml. a little while in the promenades—and amused by watching some boys at play, and the tameness of the birds which were hopping close to our feet—struck by the neat appearance of the German servants who wear neither cap nor bonnet; their hair most beautifully neat--  Our rooms are most comfortable on the first story looking out on the Dock Strasse—and from one of the windows—a beautiful [view] over a [   ] foreground to the Tannus Mountains—

Monday 21 

Went into the promenades thoro’ the Bockenheim gate keeping to the left side—very pretty and trees most luxuriant—some in perfection—but could not walk far enough to enjoy them perfectly--  In the evening drove about the town, into the Geil [?] and all round the [   ] which were beautiful gardens fromed where the ancient walls and fortifications used to be--  The avenue of acacias one of the most beautiful effects I ever saw--  The Houses outside the promenade are of the same elegant aristocratic appearance as those about the parks in England--  the architecture more light and elegant—and the flowers superb--  The Tannus Mountains form a very beautiful distant object from many parts of Frankfort—E. and A. went to see Phedra with Rachel—

Tuesday 22-- 

Too weak and languid to attempt walking took a drive—thoro’ the ancient Juden Strasse—transported me back to the dark ages when poverty and dirt around the entrances were adopted to conceal the riches within--  Several times the doors and windows were open and revealed the inner depth of houses—allowing plenty of space for concealed grandeur--  Over the picturesque ancient looking bridge and passed on our left hand a very old looking building formerly the residence of the Knights Templars—thoro Saxen Hausen which is the frontier of Frankfort over the river—into beautiful country—superb fields of every variety of grain diversified by the blue cornflower and another beautiful variety of a violet hue--  No ditches between the fields and road—therefore the latter is planted with beautiful trees, sometimes Lindens, sometimes fruittrees otherwise when the snow is thickly on the ground the road would be undistinguishable--  The principal figure in the scene unlike England is the Orchard within the cornfield and neither defended by fence or hedge--  The rich straggling forms of the apple trees amongst the grain is [sic] very beautiful we just entered the Forest not having time to go farther it is a very beautiful distant object in the scenery round tho’ not very lofty--  Home by the same way we came and an intense headache prevented my doing or being any thing more that day except enjoying some of E’s music and making a cap—

Wednesday 23-- 

Weakness and depression more painful than it has been for weeks.  Dr. S’s visit and examination of my spine tho’ he assures me it has no disease—did not tend to cheer me--  I believe the hope that change of air and scene roused have been sufficient, had gained more dominion over me than I was aware of, and the [   ] that I am still out of health and must still have all the restrictions and disagreeables of Invalidism, increased to an overpowering degree the depression—which in itself is part of my illness--  The weather was stormy and showery to go out until after tea--  I did not regret it, for I felt too exhausted to wish to move--  Walked in the promenades on the right side of the Bockenheim gate it is very pretty—E. played most exquisitely on our return—but that crushing pain on my heart would not leave me—becoming denser and denser, till it gave way to an hysterical emotion that afflicted my night and the next day as from a spasm of illness—

Thursday 24-- 

Weakness and depression more exhausting than ever—preventing my doing anything tho’ I tried to write [this] journal—a visit from Konigwerter--  The Dr came again examining my chest and heart with an instrument—continues his opinion that there is no disease but all my sufferings proceed from exhaustion of the nervous system, brought about by sorrow and mental excitement—and if this illness has indeed been coming on since the measles as I believe it has—he is right I have often and often turned to mental labour, to bear up against the pressure of internal sorrow—sorrow which none would understand, for it comes from my peculiar character, and then [so] produced it that other natures could not comprehend—oh that the mystery of feeling could be explained!--  I fancy [   ] Dr May [   ] from his discovering that I was subject to [   ] glands and other weaknesses in childhood—and that the gland under my arm proceeded from the same cause and was the same thing as my thumb at 3 years old--  I could not understand why but was completely overcome for hours after he left me—from the bitter feeling of self-reproach—that I could not be cheerful—could not feel all the petty annoyances of this long long illness, as from my God--  I could not wish my worst [enemy] if I had any, the agony of feeling which that strife of the spirit caused—

Went in the afternoon a beautiful drive by the banks of the Maine--  The country both at a distance and in which we were driving, was very very pretty but very much resembling Kent--  The trees in the orchards more luxuriant than ever--  The blue cornflowers were growing in such profusion in one field that it resembled a piece of the bright blue sky fallen on the Earth--  [   ] [   ] were employed in looking them out--  The bright red poppy, the blue cornflower and a variety of others mingling with grain especially in the fields of wheat which are becoming [   ] with yellow, produced the most beautiful effect imaginable --  Curious towers mark the territory of Frankfort—we passed one to day--  The loveliness of the sky and air added to the beauty of the scenery--  Mrs. S. drank tea with us--  E. played most exquisitely but still, that crushing pain attended the evening—like a spectre not only depressing during its continuance, but in its anticipation—A. went to the opera

Friday 25^th-- 

Still that exhausting depression—could do nothing worth recording—went with S. to a wool shop in the Geil to purchase some work, and had a drive round some of the promenades—but the air seemed only to add to the intense weight on the heart and frame—that I could not rouse myself for hours but could “look up” with more fervour and pray for strength to endure it--  Went to the promenades—where we may take several walks without going over the same spot—and tried to converse, but the exhausting depression returned as intense as ever at night—

Saturday 26-- 

Depression not quite so exhausting.  Dr S. says it is the last symptom of my illness that will leave me--  This gave me comfort and hope--  When I can but realize it as illness I can bear it—but when it seems all mental, I feel so changed that self respect departs from me and I feel as a crushed worm--  Read a very little, but could not realize any Sabbath feeling--  Took a little walk down Bockenheimer chaussee—w/ Eml—Depression as dense at night—

Sunday 27-- 

Tried to write journal, but compelled to cease from an intense headache—endeavoured to disperse it by sitting and walking in promenades, but only increased it and the exhausting depression which returned more than ever with all the feelings of irritation and misery that seemed to say my God had utterly turned His face away, for to pray was impossible  Had I seen all I should endure the first week of my sojourn here, I believe I should never have had courage to come—my whole spirit seemed to yearn to England and the Friends I had left--  Letters from them and from dear H. in a degree removed these feelings--  Spent the Evening rationally and pleasantly at the Ls--  Depression somewhat less at night—but [   ] it—as any would the most terrible physical pain

Monday 28-- 

Rather less depressed—could write journal read and work with less pain  Did not go out in morning because it was showery—but getting finer at four—went a beautiful drive to Bonheim passed some of the sites I noticed yesterday--  St. Lenohard’s church occupying the site of Charlemagne’s palace opposite the Maine—a quaint old tower and thence into the country—passed tthro’ cornfields and orchards—that is fruit trees growing within the cornfields thro’ which our road lay  Frankfort lay behind us embedded in blue and hills and the distant views were beautiful passed by a curious old Tower of Bonheim, and Rothschilds country place in a lovely garden with a piece of water and an Island with a summer house upon it--  After leaving Bonheim, our road became so narrow that had we not another carriage I doubt our being able to pass--  Shelving down on the left hand into a luxurious valley—with diverse trees in the most luxuriant quantities…  The red fruit looking beautiful against the green leaf—and thro’ the trees of the valley peeps of a beautiful distant view--  It was only an hour and a half’s ride—but one of the prettiest I have taken—  Went to the promenades from ½ 7 till ½ 9—sitting and walking—the air being so delicious and the evening lovely and noticed a species of fire fly—they called it a glow worm but glow worms of England do not fly—and this was flying about like a spark of fire—

Tuesday—29-- 

One of the most lovely days we have had this summer--  Wrote journal and to Aunt S.  Read Schiller’s Maria Stuart—not a good translation—but a most beautiful play--  Started at ½ 3—a party of 8 in a delightful carriage for Wilhelmsbad—Left Frankfort by the Heillaliegan gate and proceeded on the Haman Road which is mark’d as usual by cornfields and fruit trees, not so much scattered about the fields as marking the chaussee  We noticed several pictures on the road, formed by sitting and sleeping groups—one of the latter under the trees on our left hand was a complete study--  On the right—we came in sight of the Maine and a beautiful distant view sketched on the left—while close to the road on the same side lay a complete forest--  We passed thro’ a most curious Turnpike—formed by a long pole and rope nothing like a gate

Then thoro’ a quaint and most picturesque village, all the walls of the houses being marked with wood and gable ends and seeming almost more truly foreign than any village I have seen in Germany.  There is a curious prohibition on the walls of one of the cottages [GA’s drawing here].telling all the coachmen passing thro that they were forbidden to ride fast, for fear they should hurt the children--  The nicest object arousing our attention was Phillipsmuhe a chateau on the Maine belonging to the Cour Furst or Elector of Hesse Cassel (in Gr. Burhessen) soon afterward our road wandered to the left—and a beautiful drive thro’ the most luxuriant trees, brought us to Wilhelmsbad—consisting of a curious town—with moat and bridge, which thro the trees as we approach is a most interesting object appearing like an old ruin—a fine Rursaal—deserted Theatre and most extensive and beautiful gardens--  The part of which opposite the Rursaal has an orchestra, and innumerable tables laid under superb horse chestnut and Linden trees--  We rambled about the gardens walking and sitting for full an hour--  Noticing some fine beeches in full blossom which I never saw before—[   ] or lindens almost yellow with their exquisitely scented bloom several wild flowers transporting me back to Devonshire—a wide tunnel running under a [   ] covered rock on which is a large merry go round, and leads on the right [   ] and more lovely parts of the garden--  The music sounding most thrillingly to my ear in the open air—shew us to the more frequented parts—heard some fine waltzes and overtures to Don Juan—went and tasted the water which resembles that of Tunbridge Wells in flavour but is not so powerful--  Looked into the Rur Saal most elegant rooms, but their use is too repugnant to my feelings even for admiration  It seems to me a marvelous invention—the temples to the most horrid, joy destroying vice gambling—always erected in the loveliest hauntpeace giving scenes of nature--  Enjoyed our tea true German fashion under a beautiful horse chestnut within hearing of the music; sat [   ]an hour over it and then adjourned to see some of the curiosities of the place—a Tame Laura [?]—recalling Guss in Barnaby Rudge—a cage with a dove and a gold finch each most hostile in seeming to the other—and then followed our guide thro’ a most beautiful wild brushwood—forming a sort of luxuriant deserted garden with several most beautiful rose bushes, and other curious plants which I do not know in England  The trees seemed to be Lindens chestnuts birches—[   ] beeches acacias, and a variety of other [   ]--  After a delicious walk/resting several times, we arrived at a curious Hermitage sunk completely in a valley and almost hid by thick lofty trees--  The gate is closed by order of the Cour Furst as it had become so much a resort of lovers but as we weave our way quite easily thoro the window the closing of the door would not do much but making the [   ] of entrance somewhat more romantic and akin to the adventures in which love is said to delight  The Hermitage seems hewn out of a rock (which is completely covered with vegetation) and consists of a five compartments the centre one about the size of a moderate sized room—from which four sorts of closets open The one on the left hand (facing the Hermitage) served him for a bed room--  The one on the right, for chapel and oratory, The [   ] and [   ] before it remaining perfect  Then his other compartments facing the other corners are smaller ones serving as a kitchen, and the other  I should fancy a sort of pantry--  the whole scene recalled the residence of the Friary in Ivanhoe—and the scene between him and the Black Knight—with all the vividness of Reality--  How very much situation adds to the enjoyment of such places—giving them a vitality and real-ness.  When [   ] [   ], it might have seemed a mere mass of stones, forming a subterranean dwelling…  Another long ramble in the same wild scenery took our companions to the Pheasantry--  I remained resting till their return and then we proceeded thro narrowing and more thickly luxuriant vegetation to the Tower—noticing a curious pyramidical building on an Island in the moat in which is deposited in an urn which we could see thoro’ the grating—the heart of the late Cour Furst Wilham I to whom the [   ] belonged and used as a hunting spot--  It looks outside a complete ruin, but inside is fitted up with all the massive furniture forming the luxury of a past age--  The lower story consists of five or six small rooms, with indented embrasures for the windows—oaken floors—paneled walls—a picture of the late Elector of this Hess—a curious bed with a gilt crown to hold the dark curtains—and in another room a luxurious chair and library table a flight of 52 steps winding round and round without any pause, led us to the second story which is one fine room—the size of all the rooms [   ] with it in one--  The roof is domed adorned at the base with bas-reliefs medallions in gilt frames and also between the windows alternating with mirrors and antique lamps in suspense from the centre of the roof—one of the lower medallions was pointed out to us as the head of the Prioress Mary Sister of our George 3—who married into the House of Hess Cassel (In. to look for it)--  The room being circular each of the six windows commands a different prospect but only three [   ] open—and one of them looking over the wildest part of the grounds, and moat—and nighest me another a complete perspective of the road forming a perfect picture of a beautiful chaussee with fields and trees each side another over another part of the woody grounds—are all exquisite tableaux--  The alternate windows appear to look out on parts of the ruins meant to receive plants--  The furniture is of antique shape and handsome tapestry and the floor of beautiful oak mosaic of light and dark wood—37 more steps winding round the tower took our party all but M and myself for I could go no farther--  The top of the tower whence the view was they all said so magnificent as to haunt them for nights and days afterward--  The kitchen and other out Houses of this hunting [spot] for such I fancy it to be were scattered toward the tower joining [   ] portions resembling ruins and adding to the general effect of outward age and antiquity, tho, I rather think the whole has been built to resemble a ruin, more than that it really is so—at all events it is in good taste and keeping with the scenery around--  A narrow [   ] bridge led over the moat to the high road [   ]—our carriage awaited us—and the drive home was most enjoyable from the lovely stillness of tree covered prospect—Earth and Sky –To me poetry so dwells in deep repose--  It is the first excursion I have enjoyed with something of the zest of former years, tho’ the impossibility, to walk and go along as our companions do still a painful drawback--  Before the Rursaal is a double row of fine orange trees and on one side are [numerous] [beds] of flowers—rising from the floor almost to the height of a tree—

Wednesday 30^th-- 

Another most lovely day--  Wrote my journal—interrupted by a visit from Miss Stranch with GS.  There is nothing yet attractive to me in any of the Germans I have seen--  The sprit of the country appears to me completely, [lying   ] and speculation—instead of Truth and Faith—that a residence in it would be to me most painful--  My whole heart yearns at times to the kindly natures, and warm sympathies—and truthful hearts of some even of the most casual acquaintanceships in England--  Continued with Monte Christo, which is one of the [   ] (as yet) French Books I have ever read, finely conceived and drawn--  The intense heat occasioned an almost painful feeling of languor—at five went to the MainLust [?] a tea garden on the bank of the Maine commanding a fine view of the opposite banks--  The tables are laid before avenues of lime or Linden trees—and one avenue is left free for promenades--  There is an excellent band and the scene was peculiarly German every table filled with tea drinking, or beefsteak eating parties--  The ladies knitting the gentlemen stocking--  The music was to my ear most beautiful—a fine band playing several airs I knew—from Somnabula—Nonea—Lucretia Borgia—and most inspiring waltzes--  In former days story after story would have risen in my mind under the influence of such sounds and scenes--  Now Imagination feels quite dormant—and that is one reason why I am less capable of realizing enjoyment--  The ladies dresses were much the same as in England—and some of the Germans very pretty looking girls  The Lindens were completely covered with blossom—the exquisite scent of which when wafted by the air to us—seemed like some old strain of melody--  The blossoms do not smell, if taken and held in the hand—but the breeze seems to call the odour forth—and bear it on its wings, as it passes—all inhale it—but so few seem to have known whence it came till pointed out to them--  We were in the gardens till ½ 9—and going home—the exquisite clearness of the sky almost a pale green tint, struck me as more approaching holy than England—

Thursday 1 July-- 

Read list of [German cities]—which is much more impressing from having passed thro’ many of the places it mentions--  Afterwards went into the [   ] hand promenade, and sat about an hour reading Monte Christo  In the evening went to hear Der Freischutz for the first time, and was more delighted almost than I remember being with an opera for some years--  It was well cast—and the music and story so exquisitely blend, that the mind rested on both--  I had always imagined the tale merely one of much devilry melodramatic and [effective], but more to attract my eye, than satisfy the mind--  Instead of which the exquisite music gives it to my fancy at least all the grandeur and sublimity of an elevated dramatic poem--  The evil spirit which is introduced is but the embodied presence of an evil thought—scared away by the first return to honour momentary purity and a thought of God--  It commences—by Nial having failed in an annual trial of skill and the bird being shot by chance, by the fool of the village--  The laughing chorus, in their jeering and scorning him—and how much of evil does ridicule in some hearts engender!  Max is the more open to the whisperings of Evil—from the near approach, of the day, in which his skill must win or lose his bride--  He is one of those ordinary characters of humanity liable to temptation, but open to all the better recollections and thoughts, which a comparatively innocent childhood and youth are [sic] engendered  Caspar in that story, has sold himself to an evil spirit to whom he is bound to sacrifice a human soul every year, or deliver up himself--  This is nothing more than allegorical, of a human nature given up to wickedness who seeks as all such spirits do, to make others, particularly such natures as Max evil as himself—conscience only works when in contact with goodness and therefore he seeks to annihilate it--  He promises the power Max so desires—and the song which follows in which Max left above struggles between the evil and the good—the change in the music—at every appearance of the evil alternations of his spirit--make it as fine a soliloquy of its kind, as any of Shakespeare--  Some people imagine a song so strange a vehicle of emotion, so out of Nature--  To me it is no more out of Nature [set] to such music than the blank verse and elevated strain of the Poet--  Then comes Caspar again inviting him to drink He hesitates—yields—and as he does so Janiel appears between the bushes--  Simply meaning he has left one [   ] defenceless yielding to the first Temptation--  Caspars song of triumph when his victim leaves him after trying the effect of the [   ] [   ] is also beautiful--  The 2^nd act is almost entirely between Agatha and Aunchen—and the songs given to each perfectly pourtray their respective characters, as a few words would do; in such writers as Scott and Mrs. Hall--  Agatha was done by a Suiss [   ] finely both for singing and acting—there was such excessive purity in the latter--  Her pleadings to her lover, are human nature—and it is a beautiful complement to Woman tho’ seldom perhaps perceived by either the writers themselves or their readers that the pursuaders to resist evil are always given to Woman I can scarcely define why but the music seemed to [   ] the whole story, thus creating thought on thought--  The 3^rd act was entirely filled up with the Incantation Scene—and this too appears to me full of Allegorical Meaning--  Caspar’s horror as he calls on Janiel to aid him—mingled with a vain hollow attempt at bravery finely delivered, the expiring struggles of Conscience, which is never deadened utterly in the human heart--  He calls on the spirit of Evil to aid him, that is he collects every bad deed and thought of his past life, to overcome the faint whisperings of his better spirit and the appearance and words of Janiel are are but the presence and response of the evil thoughts—Succeed—and it is well—Fail and you are mine—and is it not so with all pursuers of evil--  Success hides the spectre of conscience--  Failure, and it is despair and death—and a hereafter--  the appearance and descent of Max, are one of the finest allegorical effects in the Opera--  The music first [   ] hesitation, and then comes a bit of the laughing chorus—which is evidently the embodied recollection of the scorn and jeering he has encountered the very incentive to urge on to bad passions—in  a common nature--  He makes some eager steps in descent—then pauses transfixed by the phantom of his mother—a mere host to some natures—to me and E—the visible presence of that memory which of all others would be likely to live in a well disposed heart—at first it is only the memory and then the phantom waves him away—as would be the effect of such a memory but the music seems as if he would not listen and it vanishes as he proceeds--  but again he pauses at the embodied thought of his bride--  How can she be purchased by evil?—but how is she to be gained without?--  the [   ] comes a struggle between both feelings—but human passion predominates and he leaps down—

The Incantation ghostly and supernatural as it seems, is simply the initiation with Evil--  The tempter begins by comparative horrors—gradually preparing for the acme uinder which  Max’s still new guileless character succumbs and Janiel appears to Caspar under still more terrible aspect, as the last thro’ to the gambler--  He knows the risk, the end of the game yet cannot turn back-- 

The last act, is more human and less allegorical—and not very well connected with the previous one as to the use to which the six [bullets] have been put, as the 7^th only belongs to Janiel--  There is some beautiful music between Agatha and Aunchen equally descriptive of character--  and of Max’s lingering hesitation before he shoots--  The ball misses Agatha by the merest chance and shoots Caspar—in ordinary words the evil recoils on the Evil doer—and he dies in the power of Janiel—who is with him alone—and is the mere embodying of an evil conscience--  Max is at first considered as a sharer of unhallowed rites—but then thoro’ the intercession [of] a holy hermit pardoned—and this is good too for such a nature is far more likely to keep to the good thoro’ mercy and kindness than had after evil [   ] under strong temptation been too severely treated  All this had it been given as a melodrama not an opera, or even united with [   ] music, would have been nothing but a [   ] impersonation of impossible events--  Combined as it is with such first rate music told in fact in music as full of exquisite melody as thrilling harmony—and every variety of effect answering to every breath of thought however changing it is grand and beautiful as if told in the most elevated poetry—banishing from it every thing unnatural, or supernatural and frivolous, or ranting—leaving the mind full of thoughts and the heart of feelings, and any of the highest kind of [reflections]--  It is the personification, or embodying of the inner being--  the giving form to thoughts and shape to memory—not as it seems to some, mere outward things—regarded as the one it is fraught with deepest meaning as the other, a mere ghostly or devlish tale--  The very music fails in its end, if looked on as the latter, which as the former it shows almost that deep knowledge of the human heart, in [   ], which marks the union or rather close connection of poetry and music—no opera ever breathed this so strongly—

Friday 2-- 

A bad night following the enjoyment of the opera, rendered to day rather languid – red in the promenades – wrote journal – Dr S. came – and commended me constant excursions – and going to the opera if I can do so without being pushed and when I can sit on easy seats etc. – in short that I am to be a lady at large with regard to amusement – [   ] that does not excite, or increase the beating of the heart – a very very little thing does that – even the receipt of a letter I have longed for --  Went in the afternoon a drive to Millborge – crossed the bridge on which noticed a fine statue of Charlemagne, and an iron crucifix, on the top of which is a gold cock – the legend of which very much resembles the usual legends of Germany in the Devil assisting architects and the architect in their turn cheating the devil  The old gentleman aids in the erection of the bridge demanding as fee the first [gig] that passed across --  The architect by the advise of the priest sent a cock across it which the devil in a great rage [   ] a hole in the bridge, which hole has never been filled up but a crucifix erected over it with the cock in commemoration of the successful cheat --  Went thoro’ a good part of Saxon Hausen which seemed very old – up a hill commanding one of the finest views we have yet seen  The Cathedral formed a fine object looking down on Frankfort – and the maine lay like a thread of silver beneath us –  Our drive was in a path centre of the richest cultivation: fruit trees of every description growing in fields not only of grain but of vegetables – not an inch [of] ground is left uncultivated but there are no divisions in them – and no [   ] as there are in England to give evidence to whom they could belong –  The distant views very much resemble those in Kent, in the drive from Tunbridge Wells to Penshurst but not quite so rich –  Passed by one of the old watch towers used in former times to command the road, that the first sight of an enemy might be communicated to the town  In the way home passed thoro’ several vineyards, from which a wine peculiar to Frankfort is obtained –   It was on of the hilliest drives we have taken and the air and skies most delicious and the country tho’ exceedingly pretty around Franfort cannot compare in beauty and grandeur, to the scenery in Devonshire –  The view of the Taunes Mountains from our drawing room window looked so exquisitely violet in the evening light, that we went up stairs into the servants’ room to look at them and it was one of the most magnificent effects of sky I ever witnessed –  The sun had gone down behind the highest mountain leaving on its edge a broad ridge of gold.  From that gold was a splendidly shaped cloud of dark violet – to the right of which was another of the same hue with golden edges –  There lay in a sky a most perfect blue becoming rose towards the horizon bathing the far mountains in violet and the mid and near distances in a sort of flood of liquid clearness – of exquisite blue –  You seemed as the author of Modern Painters observes to be able to look thoro’ and thoro’ and in and in it as if there were no reaching its depths –  In the dark chatted and asked riddles –

Saturday 3rd-- 

A letter I had longed to receive telling me news – of my dear friend so made my heart beat that I think Dr S. would have forbidden its receipt – but its effects made the day almost a happy one – did not go out – the weather was so hot that I did not go out but sat with all the windows open reading – Howitt’s German experiences –  Spent the evening at Eschinheimer Strasse most pleasantly conversing and looking over some dried plants – talking principally with Solomon –

Sunday 4^th—

The day was magnificent but too hot to attempt leaving the house till after tea which we took early that we might start for a long drive at ¼ 6 –  We left Frankfort by the Bockenheim gate and drove first thoro’ the schaussees formed entirely of Linden trees so full of blossom that the air was completely redolent with their scent –  There were beautiful villas of light and tastefully architecture – on this night, almost all the way to Bockenheim which is so large a village as almost to seem as a town –  One of the look out towers just before we reached Bokenheim marked the end of the Frontier Territory and the commencement of that of Eur Hessen – or Hesse Cassel on thoro’ an immense plain variously cultivated with all sorts of wheat barley etc., but having no division of hedge or road to near by respective properties –  The mountains right before us were bathed in the most beautiful blue –  Hausen a quaint village with the picturesque houses, all their walls marked out in wood – on thoro’ a cozy pretty varied road – a long avenue of poplars – particularly fine trees – leaving a picturesque village Ginheim to our right embedded in trees – the little river Nieder here became a very pretty object – as [   ] water always is –  We crossed it leaving another remarkably pretty village, Mannheim to our left, and soon after Heddirnheim, (after crossing the river we had entered sev. territories of Naussan) Heddirnheim we noticed a very pretty church yard full of stones with crosses, the first of the kind I had ever seen.  Another of those curious turnpikes kept by the most awfully ugly woman I ever saw, exactly the sort of looking person – imagination pictures keeping lonely houses and haunt [   ] [   ] – a regular hag.  And the village seemed full of them for tho’ there were none so ugly yet ugliness greatly predominated –  Our carriage seemed rather a wonder in the village – as numbers of heads protruded from curious windows as we passed – bring back several times to our recollection pictures of Rembrandt –  Leaving Niddirnheim another very pretty road crossed the river again back into Rurhessen to the village of Eschirshein quaint and [ carved  ] as the others with another of the curious turnpikes (but not so many ugly women) –  We saw a pretty looking village to the left (we were now returning to Franfort) Prenngesheim, and then entered the Nornberg chaussee – which is strait and planted with trees as usual only rather more hilly – a stone like a mile stone marked the end of Ruressen and commencement of the Frankfort territory causing us some amusement that part of our party should be in one territory and part in another – and could [ reach ] hands across –  Another picturesque look out tower and then we entered Frankfort near what I call the Acacia promenade.  The country had been of the same character as all our other drives – highly cultivated but flat – with cornfields and fruit trees – avenues of Lombardy poplars – or limes – some narrow lanes – we seemed nearer the mountains so as to distinguish the rivers of Konigstein, and the undulations and divisions of hills and the various lights as the sun descended were most beautiful --  From pale hazy blue, they gradually deepened into violet – and then into gold changing into rose exactly the same tint as the rose leaf [   ] –The heavens ever the same atmosphere of blue not a flat surface, but depths of transparent azure except in yellow and rose tints towards the mountain –

 A fire took place at Franfort at 12 oclock causing such a confusion in the blowing a horn just like a [   ] ringing the alarm bell at the cathedral – beating drums at all quarters of the town and voices shouting out fauer – we saw it quite plainly from Rachina’s house it was soon got under – curious enough however, there was another alarm of fire horn and drum the next morning at 8 o’clock –  The previous day Sat., E and S took A to the tower of the cathedral where the horn is kept and E declaring the sound of the horn was so remarkable A must hear it asked the woman guide to blow it – she horrified at the idea positively refusing – and that it should be blown twice for a fire not [   ] afterwards, caused a joke against E and S that they had ignited the fire to gratify A with the sound of the horn.  It was undoubtedly a curious coincidence and in former times might have caused E and S to be suspicious of magic and prosecuted accordingly

Monday – 5 –

The heat more intense than ever not only preventing my going out, but making [me] feel quite sick and faint all the afternoon till after tea –  When we went to the promenades where alternately we sat and walked and had an ice, in an ice shop in the Gasse and came not home until just 10 – I was very very tiered –  The promenades are very pleasant from their having such a number of walks and a great variety of trees interspersed with flowers – saw for the first time in them acacis in most beautiful blossom large bunches of white blossoms which against the emerald green of the elegant leaf has a very fine effect –  The trees in the promenades appear to be mostly Lindens, horse chestnuts, Acacias, [   ] here and there a white stemmed graceful birch that I am so fond of – some fine [   ] ashes one of which forms

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…an extreme attention in the whole family, that can not fail to do the heart and spirit good –  There is neither pretense nor fake humility – that which they have, they are made welcome to – and we have no feeling that we are causing them expense or annoyance.  This is a refinement needing no education to bring forth –  There was a time

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…experience that brings a [   ] and wiser judgment –  All the young people, particularly [L] and Sol. please me exceedingly after lying down, a little while after dinner, we heard Emanuel’s beautiful concertante for piano and violin cello, by [   ] and [   ].  I never heard him play so beautifully nor liked his compositions more –  It is thrilling – overpowering in the end –  Those are the things which I believe I ought not to hear from the rapid palpitations of heart, and [   ] of the whole frame which generally attends any thing of his –  Such strange sad thoughts came to me as I listened and looked on my gifted brother.  can all that genius end in the cold grave? or is it not rather but the commencement of perfected power – oh when will the mystery of Life be solved --  They tell me not to think and when I am not writing, thought presses on me even from seemingly trifling and happy things, till I would give anything to escape from it – and nothing more, than the end and aim of Life -- . After his own beautiful piece he played two of Beethoven’s sonatas with no. 6 – it was a real treat –  Afterwards we went a drive under Sol’s – guidance; out at the Eschinheimer Gasse round the Grungebirge and looked in at the cemetery – passed several large farm yards very different and more aristocratic in appearance to the rural tree [   ] once of Devonshire and Kent – in one belonging to Rothschild – there were turkey peacocks etc. –  We rode thoro’ fields and etc. the wheat so full of grain, as actually to be on the ground impelled by its own weight, as if the wind had lain it there – some beautiful wild flowers were gathered for me by S and the coachman who was a complete character telling me how silver schones neat beautiful flowers were which God Almighty planted, so superior to those planted by man – then he would [   ] us, in a strain so elevated, that a sad downfall to my ideas of enthusiasm in a character our party pronounced him somewhat inclined to be in liquor – 

Drank tea also at Eschinheimer Strasse and introduced to the Misses Oswald (the female singer with whom I was so pleased, in Der Freischutz and her sister) –  Our tea was a very merry one for by dint of interpretation, we could all join in conversation –  A sudden pause in our mirth as if neither knew what to say next – caused us to hear a beautiful legend, that when such a sudden hush falls on conversation – an Angel is passing thoro’ the room.  After tea adjourned again to Emanuel’s room and had so more music.  He played his beautiful Regiment’s Tochter and Miss Oswald sung several songs most good naturedly – her voice is too powerful for a room, but its Soto Voce notes are very sweet and her style is purely in tuned and excellent taste and when the animation with which she sung from the operas in which she performs, as if it was so difficult to restrain from throwing herself into the part – she and her sister please me more than any Germans I have yet associated with  She was lively – but I am certain that liveliness is not her natural disposition, or she is unhappy – her countenance was rather a study to me especially when in repose – her sister’s expression was different no less a study –

And. Be. In my journal of Sunday I forgot to notice that the country people of the villages we passed, seemed enjoying themselves, in no way different to English country people – and [   ] was lead to think so differently

Forgot to mention on Tuesday that during our drive the mountains presented a completely different aspect to any we have yet seen driving  Above them was a ridge of light sky and between that and the sunny [   ], a range of darker clouds which throwing a dense shade on the mountains, brought them so much nearer and so very much clearer that I could discern all their divisions and instead of seeming a flat surface it was a complete tier of mountains broken into three and in some parts four different distances – and displaying even valleys and woods between.  The farther distance was so light and cloud like that I think it must have been the [vosges] – beyond the [tanines] –  It was most curious their being brought so much nearer merely by the effect of sky –

Wednesday, 7 –

The intense and continued heat prevented my going out – but the day tho’ very weak would not have been uncomfortable if I had not complied with Dr S’s desire to bathe in the maine –  I could not remain above two minutes in the water and the whole etc. dressing and undressing riding there and back and still being obliged to walk to and from the bath and the carriage completely exhausted me, and brought on all the feelings of depression and misery –  A storm took place in the evening but even if it had not – I could not have gone out –

Thursday, 8 –

A day of bitter and complete exhaustion bodily and mental –  Every nerve felt aching and yet powerless.  Voice and swallow [ing] difficult and painful – the [   ] of my [   ] Ancles – the same pain as in the early part of my illness – could do nothing by lie down – and scarcely even read until quite the evening  Wished to do several things but could do nothing; will and energy utterly gone – and depression as exhausting as ever.  Eml’s nocturne made the tears pour down without the power to stop them –  It was in the dark, and no one knew it, which a comfort –  If I could but  [   ] this exhausting depression [,] could but hide from every eye irritation, and sadness – I could better bear this long continued trial –  It is the utter loss of self esteem, the feeling God has in wrath stricken me with […lessness]  -- from which I cannot rally –

Friday, 9^th – 

Had little power for any thing in the morning except to write to H – compelled myself at four to go to the Kaiser Salle – compelled is a strange word to use when there is no necessity for me to go, but when illness has no palpable evidence – for weakness is known only to the individual who endures it – it is most painful to prevent a whole party going any where by refusal to accompany them  The Kaiser Salle is one of the oldest houses in Frankfort – and was the seat of the election of Emperors and of their banquets after their Coronation in the Cathedral which is visible from the windows of the Salle.  The square between this building and the Cathedral, was the site of the populace’s feasting and merriment, when the Emperors were crowned –  The fountain in the middle spouted wine and [   ] etc. were roasted whole and all the Jubilee, of the middle ages –  The entrance to the Kaiser Salle has the appearance of cloisters, on each side doors open into prisons – prisons at least in former times – a spacious stair case, with a painted ceiling and about half a dozen pictures (I fancy of historical subjects tho’ I could not recognize any) – led into the Kaiser Salle which is something the shape of a rhomboid square the walls of which are paneled with all [Aguilar’s drawing of a rhomboid square here] the Emperors of Germany form Conrad I who succeeded the Carlovingian Emperors – to Conrad fourth including – Henry I, [Athos] I, II and III – Henry II – Conrad II – Henry 3^rd – 4^th – and 5^th – Conrad 3^rd – Fredric Barbarossa Henry 6^th – Philip [   ] 4 Fredric 2^nd – William of Holland! and Conrad 4^th – on the road to the left standing back to the windows opposite the windows is a large space for Charlemagne and in round paintings are the heads of his sons – or family – and on the left opposite the windows Albert I Henry 7^th – Fredric of Austria and Louis of Bavaria – Charles 4^th – Wenceslas – Rupert Sigismund – Albert II – Fredric 3^rd – Maximillian I – Charles 5^th – Ferdinand 1^st – Matthias I – Ferdinand 2^nd – Ferdinand 3^rd – Leopold 1^st – Joseph 1^st – Charles 6^th – Charles 7^th – and between the windows are the Emperor and Joseph II – Leopold II – and more whose names I can’t remember –  They all appear exceedingly well painted and the different costumes and countenances would make them admirable studies.  They are all Nitches or panels thus

and the ceiling is a shallow dome beautifully painted – the Emperors that made the most impression on me were Henry I, for his open countenance and martial bearing – [Athos] I – looking like a [   ] face – Henry 5 as the husband of our Matilda and a peculiarly unpleasant face – Fredric Barbarossa a superb painting and beautiful face and figure – Maxamillian I – a gigantic noble looking man and Charles 5 utterly unlike all the others as a crafty remarkably deep countenance; nothing of the chivalric or magnanimous in appearance about him –

The next room we were shown was used formally for the elections – of the Emperors – it is now used for the sittings of the Senate – has a paneled ceiling – very much like those of [   ] in Hampton Court and a broad gilt cornice – silver candle sticks of peculiar shape are affixed to the wall – but the modern chairs [   ] etc. take away the appearance of the Past –  I could not help thinking of how the fate of nations might have been once decided in that room and the election of individuals by their fellows – decide the misery or happiness of thousands –  I have thought again and again on elections whether they are good or bad but still I cannot conquer original ideas, that hereditary successions are superior –  It is impossible for finite Judgment to decide – when the mere outward beings of the candidate can be visible –

Leaving the Kaiser Salle we took a very pretty drive by the side of the maine and then thoro’ rugged roads with fields full of fruit trees on each side – to Mainzer Chausseue – by one of the watch towers –  Listened to Emanuel’s beautiful playing, took Sabbath, and read Monte Christo –

Saturday – 10^th –

Rather a cooler day – but did not go out till ½ 6 when walked to the opera – read nearly all day – but longed for some books on which heart and spirit may rest – Monte Christo amuses me for the time – but on looking back afterwards I am not quite sure as to its good –  Saw Fraulein Tusczek (pronounced Tuchek) in “Der Regiment’s Tochter” The Daughter of the Regiment by Donizetti  It is one of the very prettiest operas I have ever heard.  The story is natural and Tusczek’s acting and singing I thought admirable.  My companions having all heard Jenny Lind in the same piece, could not enjoy it as much as I did but E satisfied me as to her singing giving him pleasure to hear –  There is a sparkling vein of [   ] melody thoro out, not once [   ] seemed heavy – but I would like to have heard every one, solos, duets, and trios – each two or three times –  The opera is the only thing in Frankfort that I think superior to England – and the only pleasure that I can enjoy without the painful alloy of exhaustion –  It neither tires frame nor mind – lasting only from ½ 6 to 9 – and not even being incommoded by heat –  Marie is a child found on the field of battle with a letter to a certain Countess, and adopted and brought up with the greatest tenderness by Sergeant Supplice and the 22 regiment – all of whom she calls her Fathers – the first act is entirely between her and the soldiers – and her lover a peasant who to gain her [   ] [   ] as Supplice discovers her aunt and Marie is compelled to leave the regiment and go with her –  The song in which she takes leave of her adopted Fathers – almost the only slow one in the piece – is beautiful –  I admired Tusczek’s acting because it is so very ladylike –  Marie is a child of nature – willful – pettish if contradicted but yielding at the first kind word – full of enthusiasm for the regiment amongst which she has been bred –  An inferior actress might have done this, but it was making her every inch a lady notwithstanding that only a Lady in feeling could give –  The second act finds Marie a Lady in her Aunt’s castle  Sometimes to seems to have lapsed, and the Sergeant Supplice wounded has come to the castle to be cured and is present while the old Countess is trying to teach Marie a fine bravoura –  The Sergeant mischievously recalls the airs she used to sing with the regiment, and she breaks off with an irresistible [   ] to sing them a march making the Countess march with her – The soldiers are in the neighbourhood, she invites them all into the castle and her song of welcome is fine.  Her lover is at their head now and officer and of course claims her –  Meanwhile the Countess has betrothed her to the son of a clerk, and in despair at Marie’s willfulness in persisting in her refusal – informs the sergeant that she is not her aunt but her mother – on hearing which after a struggle Marie consents and advances to sign the contract where upon the mothers relents – and they are happy –  The story is simple enough and so the music may be but it is so very pretty unlike any other of Donizetti, but every air haunts me from its simple [directness] like some familiar melody.  Drank tea at Eschenheimer Strasse –

Sunday, 11 –

A day of such exhausting heat could do nothing only [   ] to GU.  Mama and [   ] went to her [   ] K. who was out.  And the Misses S who were at home but the ride gave me an intense headache –  The Ls drank tea with us and afterwards we played at proverbs – “honesty is the best policy” – “what can’t be cured, must be endured” – “talk of the Devil, and he is sure to appear” – “idleness will clothe a man in rags –“  “a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush” – “out of sight out of mind” – and I think one or two others which I cannot remember –  Some of the party went out afterwards for a walk and we had a little music –

Monday, 12 –

The whole day until a six oclock tea felt one of such complete exhaustion, that I could do nothing scarcely even read – tried to write journal but could not – and even playing an easy duet seemed quite to tire me –  After tea walked to a carriage, and had a delicious drive thoro’ part of the Forest – over a bridge which crosses above a railroad and watched a train passing to Heidelberg.  It looked just like a toy [   ] walked a little in the Forest and drove thoro’ what E called a complete tunnel of trees a long vista in the very thickest in the Forest – so that even at noon day it must be perfect shade and sated as it then was ½ 8 it presented an almost awful aspect of dense shade  The flying glow worms or whatever they are, were glittery on the leaves and grass, or floating for the movement is much more that of floating on the air than flying, by [   ] producing the most beautiful effect, I could not help fancying them some of the spirits with which [Zanovis] says the atmosphere is filled, or fairies holding tiny lamps –  Another beautiful effect was the glimmering light at the termination of the leafy vista, whose arms interlaced overhead and clustered on each side exactly like the pure gothic architecture of cathedrals –  The principle trees of the Forest seemed Firs growing to an immense height – some lindens – birches – larches – very young oaks more like brush wood than full grown trees – and some fine birches, the silver stemmed bark and pendant leaves of which, are to me so very beautiful –  Before we entered the Forest, we passed thoro’ a complete avenue of immense birches almost as fine as our elms –  We were not home until just tea and a longed for letter, crowned the pleasure of the excursion and made me feel lighter and happier tho’ it took away my appetite.  

Tuesday 13-- 

Either the Forest or my letter, caused me to feel so much of former will to make the exertion of going to the picture gallery in the morning—but the exhausting feeling of weakness soon prevented any thing like true enjoyment--  No one I believe, but sufferers themselves from weakness can tell the bitter alloy this powerlessness brings to every pleasure--  I could not attempt to look at the pictures—some of which are very old but except Lessing’s picture of Huss [?] before the Council of Constance—Count Eyzelin [?] in prison—Becker’s Haymaker struck by lightning and—Daniel in the Lion’s Den none struck me very particularly  It might have been my weakness preventing sufficient attention by causing sickness and headache—but it was worth it for that one exquisite picture of Huss--  The figures are all the size of life and every one a study--  Huss himself stands nearly in the centre his right hand extended and his left resting on the open Bible--  He is dressed  in the black robes of the Rector of the University of Prague—bareheaded and the face is one on which we might gaze and gaze again and love and reverence almost to worship the mind, the calm pure elevated spirit which that pale worn face reveals the very hands the right pale, thin as the face—the left with rather more color from its fine pressure of the book whose doctrines he upholds, add to the expressiveness of the whole--  To his extreme right (the left of the spectator) stands his friend Jerome of Prague in profile—a younger and perhaps prim looking man whose every thought is evidently absorbed in his friend—equally fine and as attractive—close to Huss’s right sit three cardinals with their red hats cloaks etc. the one nearest him has his face opposite the spectator and the countenance actually haunts me, from its so completely embodying my idea of Torquemada determined even in the face of conviction to persecute Huss, and denounce his doctrines--  The next is a very old man—with a long white beard his eyes fixed on the book he holds—seeming to feel Huss’ argument may satisfy himself, but cannot stand against his belief in the teaching of previous ages--  The two bishops in the splendid robes of the Roman clergy even to the silk gloves with their rings outside the glove fill up the right of the picture all the back ground of which is filled with figures, every face of which is distinct and characteristic.  The third cardinal whom I ought to have mentioned before is a much younger man with his eyes fixed on Huss—seeming to [   ] to express, that his argument would convince him, if he dared allow it--  To the left of Huss, just below the desk on which his bible leans is another Bishop holding Sigismund’s (the Emperor’s) letter of safe conduct half open from which the golden seal falls negligently--  His face, turned from the spectator, is directed to one of the civil councillors who leaning over him appears in that earnest conversation which would almost lead me to fancy the forfeiture of that safe conduct, and seizure of Huss was being agitated between them darkly [   ] [   ]--  At the extreme left of the spectator is another fine head seeming an Italian and by the coronet some Italian bishop or prince   It is a face so expressive as quite to haunt me either as one having been seen in life, or embodying some idea, the exact subject of which I try in vain to remember.  There are several other heads and figures all exquisitely expressive and the workmanship, the exquisite spirit pervading the whole picture stamps it as one of the sublimest efforts of Genius--  I never remember a picture that so fascinated me--  The mighty emotions struggling in so many hearts, diverse as the individuals—yet such an aspect of still, stern calm pervading all--  I did not know till I referred to the History after seeing the picture, that the safe conduct was really forfeited and Huss despite the Emperor’s promise of protection [seized], imprisoned, and finally burnt—but the picture told it me.

            The other picture of Lessing is a prison cell in which Count Eyzelin sits chained, a fierce almost savage looking man his head bandaged and his hand clenched resting on the table  He is visited by the priests inviting him to recant his errors (what they are I cannot remember) and be received in the bosom of the holy church--  The face of the Count expresses a [   ] of dogged resolution, and the hand the most violent passion--  I never thought such expression could be thrown in a hand--  One priest is turning away half in terror, half in indecision, the other clothed in a white robe and holding a black crucifix is a fine beautifully expressive face seeming to care for no individual danger or trouble—only yearning for the welfare of the prisoner  The face put one in mind of Rev Greery and the expression just as [   ] he could plead.   The workmanship is the same beautifully clear